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1 Double Cloths
A general term applied to many textures in which two fabrics each with its own warp and weft are combined together. The primary object is to produce a heavier cloth than could be done in a single texture, without spoiling the fineness and the weave of the face cloth. Very often the face weave is quite different from that of the back. In woollens, and overcoatings in particular, double cloth weaving permits the production of fancy checks on the back, while the face cloth is finer in appearance. Sometimes the back is made plainer and heavier than the face, principally to add bulk to the fabric. The illustration shows a woollen material with a check face and twill back.
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2 Double Plains
A combination of two plain cloths woven together. The cloths are bound together by changing places. For convenience one cloth may be called the face and the other the back cloth, but both cloths appear both on the back and the face of the double texture. Where the cloths change places are the only binding points, and the interchange of the two cloths forms the pattern. Double plains were formerly much used for vestings and suitings in both cotton and wool. Other constructions include fancy dress materials, and the illustration shows a double plain in which a yellow cloth interchanges with a blue cloth. Both cloths have 30's warp and weft, but the yellow has 88 ends and 88 picks per inch, while the blue has only 44 ends and 44 picks. The reverse side of the fabric is exactly opposite to that illustrated.
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3 Double Pile
Fabrics woven with pile on both sides and used as hangings, polishing cloths, etc. -
4 Bags (Tubular Cloths)
Pockets, pillow cases (see Pillow Cloth). Are all types of double cloths, usually woven with tappets, similar to Smalley's, or on a dobby loom. A special loom is now made for these fabrics. If one bag only is woven in the width, 4 healds are required; if several in the width, then 2 extra or 4 extra shafts would be needed to weave the plain between the bags. The warp requires special controlling, as greater tension is necessary when the bottom of the bag is being woven. A standard bag cloth is woven 96 X 96, 14's/14's, all American yams. This "gives 48 ends and picks in each fold. The bottom of the bag being woven by a special motion. Widths are 14-in. to about 24-in. A pillow case cloth is made 108-ends, 4 in a dent, 120 picks, 24's warp, 16's weft. Ends and picks are total of both folds.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bags (Tubular Cloths)
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5 Backed Cloths
A single texture cloth with extra threads of either warp or weft, generally inferior in quality to the face yarns, and woven so as to show only on the back. Used to add weight to the fabric. This allows a cloth to have a fine face weave, and yet be any desired weight. This principal is mostly used in the worsted trade, especially for trouserings, where a double fine worsted warp and weft are used for the face cloth, and a coarse single yam for padding. Also used for giving a cloth with face and back of different designs (see Weft, and Warp-backed Cloths) -
6 Serge Double Cloth
A heavy lining fabric woven in twill weaves. The fabric is a double cloth made with silk warp for face and back, and silk weft for face and cotton for back. It is very firm and the two cloths are strongly stitched together. Used for lining expensive winter coats.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Serge Double Cloth
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7 Ardenne
A French brocaded tapestry double cloth, woven from two warps - one warp two-fold black mercerised cotton and the other warp various colours also two-fold. Each cloth is plain ground and the figuring is developed from six colours of rayon weft (Bulmerayon). The two cloths are equal, such as 96 X 80 or a total of 192-ends and 160 picks. -
8 Splits
These are cloths woven with a double leno selvedge in the centre, so that after finishing the cloth can be split into two pieces. The space between each two wires in a reed is also termed a split. -
9 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
10 Duck
A heavy cotton cloth used for purposes where great strength is required, such as for sails, boot linings, tent cloths, etc. The original duck was a linen cloth, made from double warp and weft of coarse counts, but nearly all ducks are now made from cotton yarns. Usually woven with double ends and double picks. A light duck is made. This is bleached and used for men's suitings in tropical countries. Ducks are usually named by the weight in ounces per yard - thus a 10-oz. duck cloth weighs 10-oz. per yard. For sailcloths the weave is plain and single-ends, viz., 24-in., 50 ends and 50 picks per inch, 3/30's T., 2/20's W. American makers number the sailcloth duck as follows: - Standard 22-in. No. 1 weighs 18-oz. per running yard. No. 2 weighs 17-oz. per running yard. No. 3 weighs 16-oz. per running yard. For cloths heavier than 18-oz. a cipher is added for each ounce increase, thus: 19-oz. = No. 1/0; 20-oz. = no. 2/0; 25-oz. = no. 7/0, and so on up to 36-02. per running yard of 22-in. cloth is No. 18/0. Any variation in width will weigh in direct proportion.
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11 Automobile Cloaking
Very heavy woollen double cloth, used in America for motor car coats, blankets and wraps. The fabric is simply two cloths in twill weaves, stitched together in the loom by a cotton warp. The face cloth may differ in colour from the back. Usually China wool is used as the large amount of kemp it contains, gives an appearance to the cloth not obtainable any other way. Woven about 30 ends, 34 picks per inch, 68-in. wide, weighing 34-oz. per yard. Warp yarns are coarse-grade wool, weft yarns usually coarse shoddy. The cotton binding warp is about 2 / 16's and only 2-to 3-ends per inch, so that the two cloths can be separated, if desired. Each cloth is 15 X 17 per inch.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Automobile Cloaking
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12 Damask
A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used. -
13 Blister Cloth
A fine woollen cloth, woven on the double-cloth principle with botany warp and weft for face and mohair warp and weft for back. The figuring produced by interchanging face and back is developed during finishing. The botany parts shrink and the mohair bulges on the face. Many qualities are made. One quality is made from 2/40's mohair and 2/60's botany yarns in both warp and weft. The yarns are one end mohair and one end botany. Practically all crimps and crepons are blister cloths (see Crimps) -
14 Cranky Checks
This is one of the oldest cloths made for West Africa, and still finds a sale. It is a blue and white check, with designs about 2-in. square, coarse yarns all through. The style of checking is draughtboard type with the squares filled with blue and white lines on the hairline principle. The fabric is usually 36-in. finished, 20 yards, and headed at each end with a three green, one red, heading. The finish is the usual stiff finish, and a good quality is 37-in. soft, 20 yards, 89/3 of 16's grey and 16's indigo twist, with 24 picks per inch of 16's indigo and 18's cop weft. Made in Radcliffe-and Rochdale. When woven with double ends and picks it is termed a Zanzibar shirting. -
15 Dabba Khes
A variety of Khes also known as Majou or Multani Khes. Hand-woven cloths made in the Punjab in various colours and geometrical designs on from 8 to 16 shafts by skilled weavers on the double-cloth principle. The coarse variety is made from hand-spun yarn and the fine variety from mill spun. From 2 to 4 colours are used, the principal ones being grey, blue, yellow and red. -
16 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
17 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
18 Loongyes
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
19 Loongies
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
20 Lungis
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.
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